12.03.2006
Magda Berliner and Nuala



I've long been a fan of Magda Berliner's work. Before turning to design, her history includes being an I. Magnin shopgirl, Fred Segal manager, wardrobe stylist and consultant. She may be an L.A. insider, but her style is not of the glitz that may typically be associated with Hollywood. Instead, Berliner consistently puts out thoughtful collections that remain true to her vision. She models her own collections, likely shot by her husband, photographer Alex Berliner. It almost seems as if she is making things for herself to wear and is happy to share them with anyone interested. Among the interested are the young starlets who have been spotted about Tinsel Town in her coveted recycled vintage lace dresses.
Magda graciously agreed to answer some questions for fiftyRX3.
I read that you used to work at I. Magnin and Fred Segal. Is that how you got your start as a stylist?
I worked in retail for several years whilst studying design and afterward as well. I worked with wardrobe stylists and celebrities which organically led to my leaving retail and pursue ing a career as a stylist.
What were the best and worst things about working as a stylist?
Best is doing the job to the satisfaction of the requirements, utilizing your creativity and of course being recognized for a job well done. Worst is not being able to fulfill your obligations and expectations as best as you know you could.
At what point did you decide that you wanted to begin to design clothes and why?
A friend had recently opened a retail store and asked if I wanted to stock a few pieces; I designed and produced a collection, had a presentation in New York that Cathy Horyn from NY Times reviewed and I had Barneys, Joyce Hong Kong, etc...ordering....Power of the Press.
Did you already know how to sew? Make patterns? Were you making things for yourself to wear? Did you take design classes or just experiment?
I have a degree in fashion design; I am not a good sewer but I certainly am knowledgeable on the structure elements of a garment. I enjoy drafting patterns as well as draping; it's the only way to learn more about building a garment.
Your collections usually have many pieces made up of vintage lace that have become quite popular. Are these all one-off pieces or is the same style made several times just with different lace fabrics? How did these become a continuous part of your collections?
The Lace Ribbon series is on going. Each silhouette has an element that is consistent to that style though each garment is made up of different laces. The series keeps evolving with each season. For this last season, s/s07, the consistent element is a fabric used in the cut and sew segment of the collection.
In general, what is your design process?
I pretty much keep adding to ideas I have worked with since I started the collection; the lace, leather and metal are some categories I consistently explore.
Looking back through your collections I noticed that you showed leggings, tunics, a pinafore dress and jump suits or coveralls well before they became the trends we see today. I also see that you keep ideas and silhouettes over several seasons. Do you have any thoughts about trends?
In almost every creative field you have those that stay true their style; whether it be prose, music, architecture....I believe if you try to predict trends you're not standing on solid ground. I like to have a consistency which in essence is my style; it is what makes my designs my designs.
Do you feel there is more emphasis these days on personal style than there has been in the past?
Personal style and those who express it have always been around. As we spend time in different environments we do see less of this and more conformity; ie: working in a corporate situation as opposed to a gig in college or moving into a more affluent neighborhood as a result of being able to afford it, etc....
As a stylist, how do you create a look that is unique yet accessible?
I don't necessarily believe the goal is to create something unique or accessible. It does have to suit the story, photograph well and create the feeling of the situation.
Aside from your own clothing, who are some of your favorite designers?
I wear Balenciaga, vintage YSL, APC for children and I really like Opening Ceremony.

You were hired as the designer of Nuala in January. How did that come about?
Christy Turlington, the Design Director for nuala wore my pieces for a Japan Vogue shoot, the editor was a friend who gave her my contact info; Christy called a few months later, we met , we talked and I flew to London to meet with the team and decided it was a project that would work with the aesthetic I was accustomed to. If the design was not sympatico with mydesign history it would not have worked.
What inspired your first collection? Was it a collaboration with the Creative Director, Christy Turlington, or were you given free reign?
Christy and I worked on the Inspiration Boards and spoke at length on the goals we wanted to achieve with the collection. It was pretty easy from that point on.
Several of the pieces are made from bamboo. Were you familiar with that fabric? Or surprised by it?
I had purchased a sweater that was made with bamboo fibres so when the opportunity arose to research different textiles I was drawn to bamboo and the different incarnations it can take.
How has the process been different from designing your own line?
I work on my own for my collection. With nuala I spent much time with Christy and the team on the merchandising process and I also worked closely with the production manager in Germany.

Being a fan of Berliner, I was excited to hear that she had been picked as the new designer at Nuala, the yoga friendly line born out of collaboration between Christy Turlington and Puma. Her first collection consists of easy to wear, design conscious separates. There are a few styles of pants in the line and the wrap dress, above, that are made from bamboo. There are also a couple of lyocell and wool blend pieces. The rest of the line is made from cotton, wool and viscose blends. Nuala seems to be making an effort with bamboo, let's hope that Puma soon realizes that Nuala might be a good place for their company to start getting more seriously into the sustainable game. They just need to look to fellow atheletic wear companies like Patagonia, Nike and newcomer Nau for a few lessons on how it might be done.
Magda graciously agreed to answer some questions for fiftyRX3.I read that you used to work at I. Magnin and Fred Segal. Is that how you got your start as a stylist?
I worked in retail for several years whilst studying design and afterward as well. I worked with wardrobe stylists and celebrities which organically led to my leaving retail and pursue ing a career as a stylist.
What were the best and worst things about working as a stylist?
Best is doing the job to the satisfaction of the requirements, utilizing your creativity and of course being recognized for a job well done. Worst is not being able to fulfill your obligations and expectations as best as you know you could.
At what point did you decide that you wanted to begin to design clothes and why?
A friend had recently opened a retail store and asked if I wanted to stock a few pieces; I designed and produced a collection, had a presentation in New York that Cathy Horyn from NY Times reviewed and I had Barneys, Joyce Hong Kong, etc...ordering....Power of the Press.
Did you already know how to sew? Make patterns? Were you making things for yourself to wear? Did you take design classes or just experiment?
I have a degree in fashion design; I am not a good sewer but I certainly am knowledgeable on the structure elements of a garment. I enjoy drafting patterns as well as draping; it's the only way to learn more about building a garment.
Your collections usually have many pieces made up of vintage lace that have become quite popular. Are these all one-off pieces or is the same style made several times just with different lace fabrics? How did these become a continuous part of your collections?
The Lace Ribbon series is on going. Each silhouette has an element that is consistent to that style though each garment is made up of different laces. The series keeps evolving with each season. For this last season, s/s07, the consistent element is a fabric used in the cut and sew segment of the collection.
In general, what is your design process?
I pretty much keep adding to ideas I have worked with since I started the collection; the lace, leather and metal are some categories I consistently explore.
Looking back through your collections I noticed that you showed leggings, tunics, a pinafore dress and jump suits or coveralls well before they became the trends we see today. I also see that you keep ideas and silhouettes over several seasons. Do you have any thoughts about trends?
In almost every creative field you have those that stay true their style; whether it be prose, music, architecture....I believe if you try to predict trends you're not standing on solid ground. I like to have a consistency which in essence is my style; it is what makes my designs my designs.
Do you feel there is more emphasis these days on personal style than there has been in the past?
Personal style and those who express it have always been around. As we spend time in different environments we do see less of this and more conformity; ie: working in a corporate situation as opposed to a gig in college or moving into a more affluent neighborhood as a result of being able to afford it, etc....
As a stylist, how do you create a look that is unique yet accessible?
I don't necessarily believe the goal is to create something unique or accessible. It does have to suit the story, photograph well and create the feeling of the situation.
Aside from your own clothing, who are some of your favorite designers?
I wear Balenciaga, vintage YSL, APC for children and I really like Opening Ceremony.

You were hired as the designer of Nuala in January. How did that come about?
Christy Turlington, the Design Director for nuala wore my pieces for a Japan Vogue shoot, the editor was a friend who gave her my contact info; Christy called a few months later, we met , we talked and I flew to London to meet with the team and decided it was a project that would work with the aesthetic I was accustomed to. If the design was not sympatico with mydesign history it would not have worked.
What inspired your first collection? Was it a collaboration with the Creative Director, Christy Turlington, or were you given free reign?
Christy and I worked on the Inspiration Boards and spoke at length on the goals we wanted to achieve with the collection. It was pretty easy from that point on.
Several of the pieces are made from bamboo. Were you familiar with that fabric? Or surprised by it?
I had purchased a sweater that was made with bamboo fibres so when the opportunity arose to research different textiles I was drawn to bamboo and the different incarnations it can take.
How has the process been different from designing your own line?
I work on my own for my collection. With nuala I spent much time with Christy and the team on the merchandising process and I also worked closely with the production manager in Germany.

Being a fan of Berliner, I was excited to hear that she had been picked as the new designer at Nuala, the yoga friendly line born out of collaboration between Christy Turlington and Puma. Her first collection consists of easy to wear, design conscious separates. There are a few styles of pants in the line and the wrap dress, above, that are made from bamboo. There are also a couple of lyocell and wool blend pieces. The rest of the line is made from cotton, wool and viscose blends. Nuala seems to be making an effort with bamboo, let's hope that Puma soon realizes that Nuala might be a good place for their company to start getting more seriously into the sustainable game. They just need to look to fellow atheletic wear companies like Patagonia, Nike and newcomer Nau for a few lessons on how it might be done.



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I'm so glad that you were able to do an interview with Magda. I have been trying to months to find the tiniest peice of info about her but have had no luck. Your interview was very informative. thanks!
Stephanie
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Stephanie
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