...this makes me feel incredibly small. What could the chances be that we are the only life that exists being that Earth is of one solar system in a galaxy of roughly 100 billion stars in a universe of an estimated 125 billion galaxies? So, let's see that is 100 billion, give or take a few billion, multiplied by 125 billion. Slim odds that we are alone I'd say. It would be interesting to know what is out there wouldn't it. What's happening on all those other Earths? Maybe one day there will be a report, Earths: A Comparitive Study. Are they zipping around in electronic vehicles wearing organic cotton? So, now I don't if I should worry about global warming, falling into the space-time warp of a black hole or galactic cannibalism.

So, in case you think taking a daily picture is a little odd, listen hear for an early web flashback and an interview with Jennifer Ringley of the JenniCam. This American Life is great.

During the week I tried a uniform of jeans and sweaters that worked well with a hectic schedule requiring no more than casual dress. Then Sunday I hosted some friends for brunch and wore a dress.

I've been padding around the apartment in these new slippers as well. I bought them from Pearl River while picking up a couple of bamboo benches for my apartment.

Last week I wrote about some of the ways musicians were going green. Hankering for more "ecoustics"? In their latest issue, SASS magazine takes covering the sustainable beat literally. Check it out.

WWD featured an article today on ethical fashion. The piece centers largely on Paris's recent Ethical Fashion Show and brings up some good points and exciting statistics.

growth in the industry...

Sales of ethically sourced clothing, which includes organic cotton, fair-trade clothes and recycled items, grew 30 percent in the U.K. to 43 million pounds, or $81 million at current exchange, in 2004, according to the Co-operative Bank's Ethical Consumerism report. Meanwhile, ethically motivated secondhand clothing purchases increased 42 percent to 383 million pounds, or $718 million.

While more recent statistics are not yet available, this year's Ethical Fashion Show, which took place in Paris from Oct. 13 to 16, suggests that growth isn't likely to slow anytime soon. More than 4,000 visitors, including scores of international media, attended the four-day event, a 54 percent jump over 2005.

design still needs to be primary...

"Brands need to tell a compelling story," said Holt Renfrew's Atkin. "But consumers have to love it and be drawn it to first. Then when they find out that by buying [a brand] they are making a difference, they feel great."

we need increasing corporate transparency across the board...

As ethical brands multiply both in number and in style, not to mention marketing savvy, so do calls for greater transparency across the entire supply chain. Participants at this year's Ethical Fashion Show had to answer a nine-page questionnaire covering environmental issues and workers' rights, as well as social and business objectives. Each brand's ethical claims were then identified for buyers, either fair trade, traditional skills, recycling, organic or social projects.

you say "eco", I say "sustainable"...

Show organizer Isabelle Quéhé said deciding on a definition of what is in fact ethical is problematic.

trend vs. future...

WWD and other industry press, such as NYLON, have been continually covering eco-fashion. These publications can help increase consumer and industry awareness which will hopefully feed the demand for ethical and environmentally friendly products. However, there clearly is still a lot to be done in the apparel industry as WWD also reported last week. According to an independent advocacy group, a Bangladesh factory used by Wal-Mart and Hanes had several labor violations. We cannot count on every company to have a Yvon Chouinard or a Ray Anderson steering the ship. Some companies are driven more by profit than morals and have not yet realized the two are not mutually exclusive.

If consumer demand increases, surely there will be people scrambling to fill the supply. Let's hope this leads to some true change and not a load of greenwashing. In the future, I don't want to have to write a shoe company for assurance that their workers are adults making a living wage. I want to be able to pull up their website and see it. It doesn't have to be in their marketing. It doesn't have to be obvious, but the information should be there. Why isn't it? Well, my unanswered email leaves me to believe it is because some kid working for pennies might have made those shoes I was eyeing. It would be nice if all companies had to fill out that nine-page Ethical Fashion questionnaire.

I never get too worked up over Halloween. However, if the opportunity presents itself I am happy to pull a costume together, often something more on the simple and conceptual side. Maybe a childhood costume I wore has had a lifelong influence. I grew up in Woodstock and one year it was quite cold on Halloween. I remember my mother bundling me up in layers of thermal underwear and saying, "If anyone asks what you are, just tell them you are warm." That was my costume, warm.

Last year was a bit more obvious. I went as Tropical Storm Jill. At certain points in the evening I upgraded to hurricane status. I wore my Watanabe-Wannabe skirt and tied and pinned little cars, helicopters, sailboats and such to the skirt, a silver sweater and grey boots symbolized rain and I put sticks and weeds in my hair. The night started out innocuously enough, but then I got taken to some crazy party on the West Side. You know that area where all the big clubs seem to be and not much else, which becomes evident when you are looking for an ATM at 3 in the morning. The place was packed and there were many scantily clad ladies about.

I began to feel like one dowdy storm cloud. My friend, dressed as a Playboy Bunny, immediately ditched me for some guy who has since become her boyfriend. I spent an hour wandering around comically interacting with a cast of characters, like the guy wearing a huge sombrero whose brim bonked me on the head everytime he leaned in to hear what I was saying. I quickly tired of smooshing my way through the crowd and "blew" out of there. There wasn't a cab to be had, so I trekked blocks and blocks, meditating on, not just the female choice of Halloween costume, but of our daily costumes, what we choose to wear everyday and if we are dressing for ourselves, for the opposite sex or for status, etc. Since I've never pinned a bunny tail to my bum and the last person I had a long relationship with often thought I dressed like his Grandma, I clearly didn't seem to be dressing for men. Maybe I was dressing to be warm?

Anyway, by the time I ended up at 14th Street I decided that I needed to take a break for a glass of wine at Pastis. Eventhough it was Halloween, walking into a bar alone at a certain hour as a woman can attract enough attention, let alone walking in as a Tropical Storm. I thought it best to downgrade my costume to a regular outfit, so I pulled all of the twigs out of my hair and plucked the toys off my skirt and hid them in my purse. Still, I ended up needing to enlist the help of a nice guy to save me from a man that I didn't want to talk to. After a glass of wine, Nice Guy and I went to another club. We eventually stumbled out and chased down a taxi to share when I realized I had never made it to an ATM and had no cash. Luckily, Prince Charming (a.k.a. Nice Guy) came to my rescue. (We dated briefly, but I seem to have a thing against handsome, perfect, successful men, so it didn't work out.) Finally, I landed at home. The next day I sat at the bar of a local restaurant, eating brunch and reading the Sunday Times. I came upon Maureen Dowd's timely article, What's A Modern Girl to Do?. I poured over the article, chomping on my french toast and chewing on her words as fuzzy images of me as a storm cloud resurfaced. Hmmmm.

I've weighed in on leather before, so you know that I don't have an issue with it. Yes I do crave some organically sourced, vegetable tanned goods, but I quite like these functional eco-leather bags from Roots. The bags are handcrafted in limited edition quantities of leather that is vegetable tanned using only natural vegetable extracts from chestnuts and Argentinean quebracho trees.

This week's ebaybes features the stylings of California Vintage Connect above and Swift Rocks and The Vintage Wench below. The pictures below are part of the reason I love the ebaybes feature. For me, it is not just the clothes and styling, but the images that straddle the border between fashion shot and self-portrait and reach just a little farther than the girl next door posing in a sweater vest. Faces can be so powerful. Sometimes there is just that "je ne sais quoi" about an image that attracts me. I hope people realize that it takes more than a pretty face to make an interesting picture.

Until recently, style and sustainability have not always been thought of as going hand in hand. Caught between your ethics and your aesthetics? Fret no more! Today there is enough variety hitting the eco-market that we should all be able to find something that falls neatly into our beliefs about sustainability and style. As a staple found in most wardrobes, jeans are a good place to start going green. Some of the brands below seem to be getting the combination right.

Loomstate has been a pioneer in organic denim that is high on the hip list. The company takes inspiration from American manufacturing methods used at the turn of the 19th century, in an age where craftsmanship, function and quality were standard

Levi's recently announced that they would be coming out with “Levi's Eco” organic jeans. The highly anticipated line is set to launch next month.

Among the styles made with 100% organic cotton are the Red Tab Vintage Straight Jean for men, and the women’s Skinny Jean and Skinny Knee Knocker Short. In the brand’s super premium line, Levi’s Capital, a selvedge denim Shrink-to-Fit 501 Original Jean, and forward fits like the men’s Wrapped Skinny Jean and Skinny Slouch jeans, and the women’s Twisted Skinny and Twisted Cropped jeans will be made from 100% organic cotton. Other elements of the Levi’s Capital lines including the use of recycled buttons, rivets and zippers and natural indigo to dye some styles of jeans were employed for their minimized impact on the environment.

Serfontaine is a vertically integrated brand for men and women out of LA that now has an organic line. Their jeans are made with a signature rope stitch and finished with enzyme degradation, which is not only less detrimental to the environment than typical washing techniques, but supposedly leaves the jeans with a softness that rivals natural aging, a.k.a. you breaking in and wearing out your jeans.

While Linda Loudermilk uses some denim in her current collection, such as the Liverpool Denim Pant above, she recently announced that she would be launching a 26 piece denim collection.

Loudermilk uses a corn-based fiber called Ingeo from Italy and sasawashi, a Japanese leaf that has antibacterial properties, in addition to bamboo and organic cotton blended with 1 percent spandex. Treatments, too, were developed to be environmentally sustainable. The washhouse recycles its water; sandblasting is done by hand, and washing machines use ozone to oxidize jeans for a sun-baked look. (via WWD)

Arne & Carlos are a Norwegiean duo adding s strong dose of style to the eco-fashion marketplace. Their rope-dyed, Japanese organic denim pieces have won me over along with their whole collection.

Kuyichi is a brand headquartered in the Netherlandcommittedas been commited to making organic cotton jeans for the last five years. They buy their cotton from Peruvian farmers and strive to be socially and environmentally sound. Their designs for men and women are scheduled to reach our shores early next year.

Last, but definitely not least, is Del Forte Denim. Quickly becoming every eco-gals favorite due to their figure flattering cut and the touch of lycra added for comfort. The jeans are made from organic cotton that is grown, milled, cut and sewn all in the U.S. Designer Tierra Del Forte has partnered with The Sustainable Cotton Project and donates a portion of her proceeds to the organization which builds bridges between farmers, manufacturers and consumers.

Some of you who also read Inhabitat may have noticed an edited version of this post on that site. I have started providing eco-fashion content for the site in a "Sustainable Style Sunday" feature. Inhabitat focuses primarily on architecture and green design and they were interested in expanding their coverage to fashion. I love their site and the people behind it, so was flattered by their request. Please take a moment to visit them. Thanks!

Some of you may have noticed my ever morphing sidebar. One recently added feature is having links back on the main page. A handy drop down menu makes this a cleaner feature. So, I thought I would highlight various links over the coming weeks. First up is The Worsted Witch.

Jasmin does not just talk the talk, but she does a fair amount of walking as well. Her blog covers a myriad of sustainable and environmental topics and also documents her own attempt at living the good life. I like Jasmin's committment to her topics. Just peruse her beauty archives where she attempts all sorts of natural home-made beauty concoctions to see for yourself. And she's crafty too!

Pip Squeak Chapeau is just too cute to pass up. It is a handmade line of childrens knits, cotton and felted wool. Store of the Month, Beklina, is carrying a couple of the felt pieces, but do yourself a favor and check out their website. I am inspired to sew up some simple smocks and join in the fairy tale.

I saw this dress out of the corner of my eye last week when I walked into the book party for Craftivity. I knew I had to eventually make my way over and find out where it came from. The owner, Kiera Coffee, home editor at Cookie, informed me that she found it at a thrift shop and there were no tags. Her guess was that it was a long lost FIT school project, which of course conjured up all sorts of histories in my head. I buy so much clothing that had a previous life, I often wonder what they could tell me if they talked. I envision my silk velvet dress from the 20's telling me about the gamine flapper girl who wore it. I wonder if my contemporary pieces will ever make it to tomorrow's thrift shop. What will they say?

Beklina is an online shop specializing in well-fashioned fair-trade and eco-friendly clothes. The store is relatively new, but the stock is growing every season. Original to the virtual racks are the dresses by Lilja, great graphic t-shirts from talla, of which I have been a longtime fan, and the amazingly adorable Pip Squeak Chapeau for your little green ones. Beklina also sells accessories and paper goods, like the colorful limited editions by Jill Bliss.

"What we love most about building Beklina.com is seeing all the creative, thoughtful and sustainable designs that are a daily inspiration in our lives. We thrive on the idea of changing the world by voting with the dollar." -Beklina

alpaca wrap dress by Lilja

Jill Bliss's soy based ink and recycled paper calendar

tote bags by fiftyRX3 Designer of the Month, Passenger Pigeon

darlings of eco-casual, stewart+brown

silk blouse by Edun

Loomstate, the perfect no wash skinny leg jean

Last week Textile Recycling for Aid and International Development (TRAID) hosted Wear Your Heart on Your Sleeve, a charity fashion show featuring designs created using only second-hand clothing, shoes and accessories. The show featured Houses of TRAID -- second hand clothing representing each of TRAID's eight shops; TRAID Vintage -- clothing from the fabulous decades of the '50s, '60s and '70s; TRAIDRemade -- redesigned and customised clothing created by TRAID's talented team of designers; and Guest Designers -- original, one-off pieces created by the likes of Ashish N Soni, Betty Jackson, Bora Aksu and Weardowney using only second-hand and vintage fabric. Everything that appeared on the Wear Your Heart on Your Sleeve catwalk is now being auctioned to the highest bidder on eBay. All procceds from the Wear Your Heart on Your Sleeve auction will be ring-fenced for TRAID's Emergency Appeals fund.

TRAID is a registered charity committed to protecting the environment and reducing world poverty by recycling and campaigning at home. Funds raised in the UK through the collection and sale of second-hand clothing and shoes help to divert waste from landfill and further sustainable development projects in some of the poorest regions of the world.

Starwood Capital Group, led by Barry Sternlicht, announced last week the launching of "1" Hotel and Residences, the first luxury, eco-friendly global hotel brand. The concept will combine the best of environmentally sustainable architecture and interior design with impeccable service and luxurious comfort. "1" will adhere to green construction and operating principles and commit to environmentally sensitive consumption of natural resources. "1" will demonstrate that green principles can coexist and enhance a luxury hospitality experience and healthy residential lifestyle. The Natural Resources Defense Council (NRDC) has agreed to be an environmental advisor on "1" with the initial goal of setting a new standard for environmental excellence and, over time, to transform the entire hotel industry.

Each new "1" will be built to LEED standards. The Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) Green Building Rating System, created by the U.S. Green Building Council, is the nationally accepted benchmark for the design, construction and operation of high performance green buildings. LEED promotes a whole-building approach to sustainability by recognizing performance in five key areas of human and environmental health: sustainable site development, water savings, energy efficiency, materials selection, and indoor environmental quality.

Starwood Capital Group is a privately held global investment management firm based in Greenwich, CT, that specializes in real estate-related investments on behalf of select private and institutional investor partners. Barry Sternlicht is widely known for revolutionizing the hospitality industry during his tenure as Chairman & CEO of Starwood Hotels and Resorts. Among other things, he is credited with innovations such as his creation of W Hotels brand (pictured above). (full press release here)

The two sisters who run Zenz, Anne-Sophie and Julie, are apparently crazy for all things organic. One runs a hair salon that by all I can tell is "ecological". My Danish is fairly non-existent, but I believe that is what "okologisk" means. The other sister designs clothes that are 100% organically made and sells other ecological labels as well, such as Camilla Norrback.

Just to reiterate, this is not a vanity project, but a documentary project. I try not to think about what I am wearing anymore than I would normally. Taking a daily picture has become so part of my routine that it really has been nothing to dress for. I am doing this to analyze my wardrobe and think about what I am wearing and also perhaps to share my better days as examples of how style and sustainability can coexist. I started the project in early November 2005 and, save for a week here or there, have been fairly committed. I decided to do this for the year of 2006 as part of a greater project to promote sustainability in the apparel industry, but I have recently decided to stop a year to the day. 365 days is enough. You get the idea. Save for the random appearance, the daily photos will end at the one year mark.



























Here I am in the bathroom at the book party for Craftivity. Sometimes, you just don't want to ask anyone to take your picture or you forget until you are in the bathroom and find yourself in front of a big mirror.

reused: wool sweater tunic, grey leather boots, suede bag
reduced: Majestic t-shirt, organic Del Forte jeans
the rest: the wool Zara wrap I've had for ages that is in my bag



























This is my "suit" on some days.
reduced: Majestic t-shirt
recycled/reused: patchwork bag I was carrying, I don't have it here as one of the straps broke b/c I'd been lugging my laptop in it. It was definitely a heart attack moment.
the rest: blown out Nikes, Vince cashmere vest, Elie Tahari track pants



























Just trying a different pose, you guys know I get bored easily.
reused: wool tunic sweater, boots
reduced: organic cotton bodysuit



























reused: boots, bag (which may be made from recycled material as well)
reworked: pants into gauchos
the rest: sweater



























Finally, I get to go out and have some fun.
reused: Charles Jourdan pumps, silver beaded clutch, Ralph Lauren cashmere cardigan
the rest: Martine Sitbon metallic linen dress over Banana Republic silk slip, Esteve felted wool coat. By the way, I feel linen and felted wool aren't too harsh and fall in to the "?" category.



























Okay, I put a little dance in here, just mixing it up. Yes, it is odd to dance by myself in front of the camera.
reused: boots, bag, beaded belt, jumper dress
reduced: organic cotton t-shirt
the rest: felted wool coat

Love, Deming was dreamed up in Deming, Washington by the three Taylor women. They use eco-friendly fabrics such as bamboo, soy, hemp, yak wool and silk. Love, Deming believes using such fabrics is an ease to the conscience about being more kind to the environment. With these looks, it is easy to be eco. I love their high-waisted pencil skirts and cropped jackets. Thanks for the tip Jasmin!(via Love Deming)

I introduced you to Kate Fletcher earlier this year. Kate has been working in eco-textiles and fashion for over a decade. She can be seen above working on the "no wash" top, below, she answers a few questions for us...

So, what are you working on these days?

Lots of different things. I’m working as a consultant to UK companies big and small on eco product and design development and also to a research project looking to design new recycled textiles. I’m also writing an essay for Earth Pledge’s Sustainable Fashion White Paper publication and putting together my presentation for the Sustainable Textiles conference coming up in Leeds UK soon.

Who are some of you favorite UK eco brands? non eco brands?

Favourite include Keep and Share, Howies, Project Alabama and Terra Plana in terms of eco. Non eco has to be Vivienne Westwood – always loved by me.

Had you ever thought about starting your own eco label? Are you as afraid of the fashion industry as I am? Or is it less scary in the UK?

No it is scary and I would hate the beauty and simplicity of the concepts and clothes to be ‘consumed’ by the system and the industry. My dream would be to be given a creative team and a big pile of cash and develop new eco fashion products that really challenge the status quo. I suppose a bit like the team at Nike did with the Nike Considered shoe. (I say this only half jokingly…. know anyone prepared to invest in this??!!)

What do you think of big companies like Marks and Spencer using organic?

It’s good. It’s a start. There’s a lot more to be done.

To alleviate any guilt I have about fullfilling my fiftyRX3 mission... what percent of your wardrobe is sustainable?

Aaagh! So very little in the way you define it - probably about 10%. Although recently – in fact since I’ve had kids – I’ve been engaged in a bit of an uncomfortable experiment - a sort of exercise in (in)voluntary simplicity. This was for lots of reasons… less money, changing body shape (and an ongoing hope that I will go back to how I was before) and an attempt to ‘walk the talk’ a bit more and make my bit of the world work more sustainably. It’s been very interesting and also quite painful. I’ve realised how important clothes are to me and how I identify with and communicate with others. I’ve realised how much pleasure I get from beautiful and well made things. I suppose I’ve realised how important sustainable fashion is.

How did you get involved in the perfect t-shirt project? Has the experience/response lived up to your expectations? Are you surprised by anything you learned?

They approached me initially. One of my ex students from the time I was a tutor at Goldsmiths in London works at Better Thinking, she gave me a call and I’ve been chatting to them ever since.

What do you think about the hoopla over bamboo?

I’m a bit confused about it. It seems to me that there are two ways to make fabric out of bamboo. One has quite a number of good eco credentials and the other is questionable. I fear that most of it is made in the questionable route using the same technology as is employed to make viscose but just using bamboo as a source for the raw cellulose and not some other wood pulp. Not much of a leap there I’m afraid.

Have you ever ironed together plastic bags and made anything with it? (I have this experiment on my list)

Not personally! But a student of mine spent a year in India working with women from the slums who were making fabric out of discarded bags and making handbags, magazine files etc out of them.

This is exciting news for industry professionals. Ecotextile News is a new trade publication that will be coming out by John Mowbray, editor of Knitting International. The publication will tackle issues such as trade legislation, sustainable textiles, dyes and pigments, power and water usage, recycled textiles and apparel, organic fibers, effluent treatment, labelling standards and compliance issues.

Variety recently reported that Leonardo Di Caprio is developing a green tv show about the greening of a town that will follow builders, architects, planners and environmentalists for several months as they build an eco-community. Hmmm, but what will they wear?

Actually, I am not talking about that kind of rock. The Star Tribune reports on Gomez's eco-footprint. What does a green tour mean for rockers these days? Biodiesel bus, renewable energy credits, organic cotton t-shirt, and organic food to name a few things. You can read more about them and the many other rockers that have gone green here. And check out Jack Johnson, Perry Farrel and Green Day on nrdc.tv.

this purse x (desire+demand+time) ÷ bidding war = $390

I only hope I live as long and with as much style as Iris Barrel Apfel. Most of you have likely already heard of her. She was the subject of a popular exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum's Costume Institute last fall (above images). Having seen her photo recently on style.com, I was intrigued to find out a little more about this woman. I came across an in depth interview she did with Marilyn Kirschner earlier this year. She is as bright and interesting as her accessories. I thought this was kind of humorous...

M.K.: What is the most memorable show that you have ever seen?
I.A.: Well I guess it’s because I was much younger and because it was Balenciaga….But I don’t know if you remember Sidney Gittler….
M.K.: I know the name…
I.A.: He was very important he started a line for Orbachs. And once for my birthday he said “you’re going to be in Paris, let me take you to a Balenciaga opening”….And oh my God that was incredible…I adore Balenciaga.
M.K.: What do you think of what Nicolas Guesquiere [sic] is doing for the label now?
I.A.: Well. It’s not Balenciaga….I don’t know much about it, I haven’t seen too much.

At first you are with her, thinking, 'Oh yes, Balenciaga, the master.', then the fashionista in you drops your jaw a bit when it looks as though she's starting to pooh pooh the much praised Ghesquière. Iris must have seen Marilyn's eyes bug out or something as she quickly states she doesn't really know upon further questioning about current editorial darlings. In the big scheme of things, it seems a bit silly to concern ourselves with the who's who anyway. I just hope that if I reach 80, I am familiar with my own name. Iris also gives out some sage tidbits...

I’m not a fashionista, and that is not my life. I love beautiful clothes, and I appreciate them, but…I’ve been in business all my life, I built a business, I’m involved in a lot of charities and all kinds of stuff…and….you know, just being a clotheshorse is not my idea of heaven.

and a couple of other moments, such as...

I.A.: The most surprising thing is that I have become this geriatric starlet. That knocks me out….
M.K.: As I’ve said, “move over Kate Moss, there is a new fashion icon in town and she’s about 50 years your senior.”
I.A.: At least I am not on drugs, and I don’t need to go through rehab.

This exhibition explores the common visual and intellectual principles that underlie both fashion and architecture. Both disciplines start with the human body and expand on ideas of space and movement, serving as outward expressions of personal, political, and cultural identity. Architects and fashion designers produce environments defined through spatial awareness—the structures they create are based on volume, function, proportion, and material. Presenting the work of international fashion designers and architects, the exhibition examines themes such as shelter, identity, tectonic strategies, creative process, and parallel stylistic tendencies including deconstruction and minimalism. (via MOCA)

From November 19, 2006 to March 5, 2007, The Museum of Contemporary Art, Los Angeles.

Pattern Language is an exhibit that explores clothing as an expression of our needs and desires as well as how they may function as modes of expression.

Going beyond the everyday utility of clothing, the artists in the exhibition use clothing, fabric, and the body to invent new forms of communication and interaction between wearers, between wearers and their clothes, and between the makers of clothing and the fashion system. The exhibition is organized in six thematic categories that address how clothing and our relationship to it far exceed the traditional idea of providing shelter.

The exhibit brings together pieces from international artists. The Art Guys with Todd Oldham (above), contribute SUITS: The Clothes make the Man. In 1998 they presented themselves as human billboards by wearing a pair of conservative Oldham designed suits with leased space to advertisers whose logos they displayed. Gayla Rosenfeld's Object Un Dress (middle) is composed of one continuous ziper allowing different configurations. Ramses Rapadas (bottom) explores literally the garment within the garment bag. The exhibit was originally organized at Tufts Art Gallery and has been traveling the US for the last year. It is currently on view at Minnesota University's Weisman Art Museum. (via psfk)

An article today in WWD states that Delta Mills will close. The U.S. based mill provided fabric for Levi's, Lee, the Gap and the U.S. military. The company's two factories in South Carolina employed 600 people. This may not seem like big news or be the most enticing thing to write about, but it saddens me. It seems as though it is increasingly difficult for domestic mills to survive and I wonder if there might have been a way to keep them in business.

Sodafine, the Brooklyn boutique stocked with independent and eco-friendly designs, is now selling online. Pick up unique crocheted necklaces, recycled leather handbags or some Del Forte denim.

I wrote about Passenger Pigeon earlier this year and am happy to see them progressing nicely with each collection. I love the textiles they choose to work with from their bamboo linen blends to their tussah silks. The pieces are often embellished with prints or embroideries echoing nature. Passenger Pigeon is committed to using environmentally friendly fabrics and is named after the now extinct bird that once filled the North American skies. The collection is a product of the collaboration between artist Heather Schible and designer Wendy Traas. You can visit their website for more information and stockists.

fiftyRX3 readers know that anything that hints heirloom pulls at my heart strings. Gruppo di Installazione's pieces remind me of that favorite heavy blanket one might tuck themselves under on a visit to Grandma's, that family quilt that has stood the test of time or those wonderful kitchen linens you might find at a flea market in Southern France. Except these linens are embellished with a modern day twist, some are printed, others laser cut while others are bordered with selvedge. Gruppo di Installazione's home textiles use materials that are the same as those used at the beginning of the last century and are produced in Italian factories still utilizing traditional techniques. Visit their website to view the pdf catalog.

Gruppo di Installazione creates domestic ambience by reassuring images of our collective memory. Recovering our history is the basis of a security essential to search for the new; objects from the past into the future.

It seems there is no end to interesting things happening in Paris this month. GALERIE 54 is putting on several exhibitions. Prouvé's Maison Tropicale, perhaps the first prefab, is to be on display. The house was purchased in 1999 by a retired NY commodities trader who retrieved it from the Congo, had it flat packed and shipped it to France for restoration. It has since been exhibited at Yale's School of Architecture the Hammer Museum at UCLA as part of the Prefab Now conference. Also on view at the gallery is minimalist architecture photography and some of Prouvé's furniture.

I have had prefabs on my mind ever since my vacation Upstate where my brother had set up a camper/trailer as a little guest house at the back of their property, complete with awning, folding chairs, a table and some hanging lanterns. I have always had a fascination with functional compact living. The latest issue of Dwell is not helping, as it is devoted to prefabs. My price-friendly preference by Rocio Romero graces the cover. I first read about Romero when Dwell covered her LV home some years back. I tucked her away in my mind for that day when I might be ready to plunk down a tin box on my own slice of nature somewhere.

So, all of this, and the current Prouvé exhibit in Paris drove me to seek out more information on where some of these ideas originated. The grainy b&w photos on Galerie 54's website did not satisfy my curiosity. I finally unearthed some photos of the LA exhibit via flickr and the UCLA Hammer website, where there is a more extensive history of Prouvé and the house, written by the man who actually bought and restored it. Below is an introduction to the exhibit.

A prefabricated metal house constructed by French designer Jean Prouvé, known as the Tropical House, will be installed in the Hammer Museum courtyard during October and November 2005. Installation of Jean Prouvé: A Tropical House will begin on October 4, and deinstallation will begin in January, 2006. The installation and deinstallation periods will last for approximately two weeks and are integral aspects of the display, allowing the public to observe, first-hand, Prouvé’s notions of prefabricated architecture in practice.

Prouvé designed the Tropical House in 1949 as a prototype for inexpensive, readily assembled housing that could be easily transported to France’s African colonies. Fabricated in Prouvé’s French workshops, the components for the house were completed in 1951 and were flown disassembled to Africa in the cargo hold of an airplane. The house was erected in the town of Brazzaville, Congo, where it remained for nearly 50 years. In 1999, the Tropical House was disassembled and shipped back to France for restoration. via UCLA's Hammer Museum

The Mae Fah Luang Foundation aims not only at bettering living conditions for Thai hill tribes through the preservation and promotion of their crafts, but also seeks to protect their environment and independence through implementation of organic agriculture programs. The current designer for the foundation is Kris Yensukchal. For this collection, which is being shown at the Ethical Fashion Show, the designer used hand woven fabric, silk and other natural yarns to produce the natural palette with a faded patina.

reused: cotton dress, suede bag
altered: tights into footless tights
the rest: Patrizia Pepe white embroidered shirt, Velvet cashmere cardigan, Jaime Mascaro suede kitten heels (I think I will keep these forever, I bought them at the factory on Menorca which imbues them with memories of a very wonderful summer), wool wrap I bought at a Zara outlet store on one of my very first trips to Barcelona.

So, given the trials and tribulations it sometimes takes to get my photo taken on the street and the laziness I have for laying them out and photographing them flat, I decided to finally open my tripod and figure out how my camera timer works. So here I am playing with this idea that could ultimately make getting to the end of the year and this project a lot easier. What do you think? If I find myself someplace remotely interesting, I'll try to do the on site photo thing, but otherwise this seems like a good way to keep the project alive. See how happy it makes me? I actually smiled.

should you so desire, you can click the photos to enlarge...

Monday:
my not au courrant look. sometimes when I get trend overload I need to pull on something contra trend... wide leg, pointy toe, preppy vest
reused: navy flats, scarf, vest, bag
the rest: Theory passe wide legged jeans, white t-shirt







tuesday:
at the Ear to the Ground exhibit at Greendrinks, thanks to Lloyd for taking the photo
reused: Max Mara silk wrap top, Dior scarf, bag (out of shot)
reduced: Del Forte denim organic cotton jeans
the rest: Louboutin flats






wednesday:
reused: Ferragamo boots, scarf
the rest: Vince cashmere v-neck, Velvet cotton t-shirt, Earnest Sewn jeans, very well worn and well traveled LL Bean back pack, down vest








thursday:
Ok, this is where I start thinking there has to be a better way. On my way home from work I asked someone to take a picture. I'll call her tourist #1. She is very sweet, but keeps trying to get me in front of this random restaurant. It was too much to explain, "no, no, I just need the clothes." She clearly thought I wanted to capture the moment in front of this restaurant. So, before hopping on the subway I ask some guy in front of City Hall (now I am playing tourist) and he says he has an appointment. I drop my head and lean against the fence when this couple says, "do you need a picture? we'll take it 'cause we need one too." I hand over my camera to tourist #2 with seemingly 5" decorated nails and am surprised that it is so gloomy at 11:30 in the morning that the flash goes off. I hate the flash, so turn it off and ask her to take another. She proceeds to take about 10 blurry photos in a row. The nails are getting in the way. Then the guy tries. He looks up after pressing the button and says, "perfect!". Great, I think, but when I look at it I am but a white blob with black legs sticking out. I sigh, smile and take their photo and go home.
reused: Ferragamo boots, Gap sweater
the rest: leggings by Velvet, American Apparel t-shirt

Saturday:
reused: jersey top, Ferragamo boots
the rest: wool Ulla Johnson sweater, Earnest Sewn jeans

More recommended diversions in The City of Light. Check out some of the work coming out of Fabrica, the Bennetton research center.

Fabrica sprung from an idea that Luciano Benetton and Oliviero Toscani had in 1994. This one-of-a-kind communication lab's experiments delve into graphic design, cinema, industrial design, music, publishing, new media and photography. The international team at its helm handpicks projects every year to encourage the young professionals submitting them to nurture their creative flair. This exhibition, designed by the Centre Pompidou, will showcase a broad selection of this Treviso-based lab's production and feature associated concert and cinema cycles. It will provide an opportunity to explore the full breadth of this research centre's work and how it is redefining the boundaries between art and communication. (via centre pompidou)

In Paris for the Ethical Fashion Show? Lucky you, you can also check out this exhibit at Institut Polonais which documents the Andrea Crews collectives recent stay in Poland via video clips and an installation. The vernissage was on the 13th, but the exhibit is up until the 27th of this month.

The name ético means ethical in Spanish and it was chosen to represent the environmental and Spanish influences evident in the collection. Stephanie Hoyle's commitment to environmentally friendly living transcended her personal life to become a key driving force behind her designs. The ético collection was her final project in the fashion and textiles program at Colchester Institute's School of Art and Design in the U.K. You can read more about Stephanie and her work here.

Bono is set to appear on Oprah tomorrow to speak about the RED campaign. It should prove to be quite a meeting, maybe the set will just combust when these two powerhouses come together. Today on Oprah is New York Times columnist Frank Rich speaking about truth in America and his newest book, The Greatest Story Ever Sold: The Decline and Fall of Truth from 9/11 to Katrina. Yesterday, Lisa Ling reported on her foray into North Korea. Quite timely, given their recent testing of nuclear weapons. Needless to say, Oprah is the best "after school" hour on tv. Can a program on sustainability be far behind?

These pieces are probably best used in craft and one-off pieces, but if you are a bit of a lazy recycler and crafter then they may be your ticket. Ebay seller Bella-Lana sells overdyed vintage woolens and It's All About the Wool sells, "recycled 100% woolens that were once high end garments. These woolens are washed, carefully desconstructed, overdyed, washed again, pressed and trimmed." Not to mention that there are many people selling reclaimed and recycled yarns on ebay if you haven't gotten around to unraveling that old sweater yet.

Rianne de Witte is one of the many designers who will be showing at Paris's Ethical Fashion Show, which begins tomorrow. Her designs have recently been nominated for a Dutch design award and it is easy to see why.

De Witte distinguishes herself to be designer of wearable clothing with a high exclusive character, her speciality is the design of coats. A Rianne de Witte coat usually gives the impression that it envelopes the wearer in a layer of armour and elegance . While the interior, mostly is full of treasures. For example, a soft sensual velvet or golden pocket in a coat is only known by the wearer of it. Subtle details, the contrasting use of colours and materials both on the inside and outside of a garment is partly what makes the work so exciting. She likes to play with the human inner and outer world.

The collection beautifully marries design and sustainability. Her clothes are produced in Brabant, The Netherlands in a sweatshop-free environment. Wherever possible, she uses environmentally-friendly materials. For her Spring 2007 collection, "Fairy Skins", De Witte utilized many fabrics from Tintex. A Portugese firm specializing in textiles made from eco-fibers such as bamboo, Ingeo, soy and lyocell. She also includes organic cotton, organic leather, linen, silk and hemp pieces.

I will attempt to highlight more designers from the show in the coming days, but also tune in here as Kyeann, the intrepid treehugger, may be giving us some on the spot coverage.

I have been slacking on the photos, lately, houseguests, work, computer issues, misplaced camera. I was mentioning it to Starre today at the Swap-o-rama-rama and said that probably readers didn't miss them. She surprised me and said it was the part she actually liked the most. I've made it this far through the 2006 project so, I might as well keep it up until the end. I finally found my camera last week, during the last gasp of summer, and took the shot below...

reused: Guatemalan shorts, bag
the rest: shoes, shirt, sweater

and these are from today and tonight...

recycled: sheet into dress, rope into necklace
modified: tights with feet into footless tights (okay, I've resisted this trend and have become especially annoyed to see girls sporting these in 100 degree weather, but I have to say, they are great for transitoning seasons to take the chill off. I promise not to overindulge)
the rest: t-shirt, flats

reused: bag, shoes, sweater
recycled/modified: rope into necklace, tights into footless tights (just cut off the toes)
the rest: silk slip and top

and those days I missed are in my big pile of laundry somewhere.

Eco-chick's Starre Vartan dries her newly silkscreened swapped t-shirt. Below are some photos of more swappers out at the Swap-o-rama-rama today. Visit the website to find or start a swap in your neighborhood. I'll try to post on some of the workshops (with links) soon.

Entermodal is a new company offering a line of leather bags that are handcrafted in Italy . The quality of the bags is equally matched by the company's commitment to sustainability. The company uses only vegetable tanned leather, free from heavy metals and formaldehyde, and buckles containing recycled aluminum. Additionally, the bags are constructed with a signature folding method that allows the company to reclaim the bags after customer use and entirely recycle it's leather and components for future use. The bags are set to debut at the end of Los Angeles Fashion Week, October 15-19th.

Reading this Business Week article has brought up some thoughts I have expressed before. Nonorganic local tomatoes at the farmer's market or organic heirlooms flown in from Holland? Sweatshop-free, locally sewn shirt or an organic, fair-trade shirt flown in from Africa? As larger businesses jump on the organic bandwagon and smaller organic companies grow bigger sourcing can become an issue. I don't have any easy answers, but can only recommend being informed and making the best decisions for yourself. Small healthfood stores and clothing boutiques may become the place where we can continue to support smaller, local producers if we so choose.

Target recently announced that it is launching a private label organic line... food, not clothing. The Archer Farms brand, exclusive to Target, will now include organic whole-grain pizzas, pastas, complete dinners, fruit strips, and even fair trade organic coffee. These products along with organic produce will be available at their SuperTarget and select Target stores. Hmmm, can clothing be far behind? It would be interesting to see what the Design for All giant would come up with. (via cnn.money)

Verdant is a new magazine that launched online today and will be available in print March 2007. A preview issue is currently available for purchase via the magazine website, but excerpts can also be read online. The company has taken steps to reduce it's environmental impact by printing on paper from 30% recycled content and 70% FSC certified sustainably harvested content. Additionally, the shipping plastic is biodegradable. The magazine states:

Verdant is the nation's first sophisticated consumer magazine dedicated to covering all aspects of eco-friendly living-from design, art and fashion trends to news summaries and authoritative product reports. Verdant entertains while it informs, delivering smart profiles, engaging think pieces, insightful travel advice and cooking, gardening and investment tips. Verdant is a beautifully designed, easy-to-read source for today's modern reader. Verdant magazine provides Smarter Choices for Better Living.

During NY Fashion Week I attended Elisa Jimenez's retrospective show at Mixed Greens. The show had several nice moments. It included an opening tango dance, a trio of women in white performing a lovely modern dance piece and a myriad of her creative NYC friends modeling the pieces. As part of the show, Elisa debuted a collection made from Ingeo paper, essentially, disposable biodegradable dressing at it's best. Ingeo is made from the fermented plant sugars from corn and made into PLA, or polylactic acid, from which the Ingeo fiber is extracted. It is fully compostable and recyclable. Above are pieces of the Ingeo collection photographed by Moe Nadel and below are images from the show....

the Ingeo pieces...

...and some images from the retrospective.

GreenHomeNYC is a valuable resource for small building owners interested in sustainable construction and green building issues. They aim to connect owners with local service and material providers. Adrian Grenier seems to be one building owner who recently took advantage of their services. The actor's green building renovation was recently profiled in the August/September issue of Plenty. Their annual Green Buildings Open House Tour is this Saturday.

Interface was one of the first companies I had heard of that was making big changes to become more sustainable. Indeed they have been at it for 12 years, which seems prehistoric when talking about corporate sustainability. I have admired their commitment to sustainability and their cute FLOR carpet tiles for some time. Founder and former CEO Ray Anderson is where the sustainable story starts. Anderson had an epiphany one evening while reading Paul Hawken's The Ecology of Commerce and has never looked back. The company has set a goal, Mission Zero, to eliminate any negative environmental impacts by 2020 and has thus far made impressive progress. Interface has more of its divisions registered to ISO 14001 Environmental Management System Standards than any other company in the commercial interiors industry. Regarding FLOR, they state:

Many FLOR designs are made from recycled or renewable resources and made in ways that don’t require (or waste) much energy. We believe so strongly in recycling that if you can't find an option yourself, you can send it back to us.

Anderson stepped down as CEO in 2001, but remains the chairman. He is active on the global sustainability scene, giving over 100 speeches a year. Additionally, the company has just announced that they are launching a sustainability consulting firm InterfaceRAISE. To read more about Ray Anderson and Interface start with the links above, visit their sustainability website and read Anderson's biography Mid-Course Correction... or just trust me and order some tiles. What more do you need to see that sustainability looks pretty good.

Have you been wandering around looking for more eco-options for your feet? Well, soon you will have some more choices. In it's first licensing agreement Patagonia will work with Wolverine to produce a line of shoes that will be as eco-friendly as possible. The shoes will utilize organic cotton, hemp, sustainably harvested latex, ISO 1401 vegetable and chromiun tanned leathers, vegetable based laces and Ecostep, wich utilizes scrap rubber. The company will retain creative control for the line, which will include 31 different styles. The shoes are set to debut in Spring 2007 and will be available via stores, catalogues and online. (via pacbiztimes)

Three articles within five days...

Organic Growth: Patagonia Jumps Into Surf
is a detailed article on Patagonia's recent foray into surfwear with the opening of a surf store in Southern California recently. The article also highlights their commitment to the environment and leadership in eco-fashion. Their wetsuit is neoprene made of crushed limestone, instead of petroleum, and is lined with organic merino wool.

Wal-Mart to Start Selling Natural, Organic Products
I've written plenty about Wal-Mart's recent sustainability efforts and now along with organic produce and clothing the retail giant will sell natural and organic beauty products.

The Green Party
provides coverage of London Fashion Week's Esthetica.