Phoebe Washburn is a New York based artist who uses recycled materials found on local loading docks and in alleyways. With her collected detritus, she creates post-minimalist constructions that appear as swells of urban refuse. Washburn, who received her M.F.A. from the School of Visual Arts and her B.F.A. from Tulane University, refers to her work as "spontaneous architecture," emphasizing a bipolar urge to merge the accidental and the intentional.

For Seconds of Something, her 2004 installation at P.S. 1, she used recycled newsprint painted with mistint (custom mixed color paint rejected by the consumer). Days of the week were assigned their own color so that each hue identifies the day, tracking the relationship between time and the amount of paper mass discarded.

E.C.O. Global Tradeshow will be held in Las Vegas this February 12- 15, 2007. It hopes to bring together serious buyers and sellers of organic, fair trade and sustainable apparel, furniture, body care and textiles for the home and business. Click here for more information.

Reflective Circle was founded in Sweden in 2001 by Josefin Lassbo. Since then the company has continuously strived to establish the concept of ethically produced ecological fashion. The company wants to represent an alternative for the "reflected consumer", who not only demands a well designed surface, but also a well designed karma. They cooperate closely with their European producer, who adheres to social and environmental certifications. Reflective Circle consists of four interrelated lines; one of classic wovens, another capsule of knit pieces, a yoga wear collection and t-shirts. (via treehugger)

“We don´t need any more mountains of poisoned massproduced clothes on this planet- but we need a better alternative! Starting just another fashion brand was never the subject for me…” -Josefin Lassbo

Grist has an interesting article up about the US cotton industry. I found the photo at this website accompanying an interview with a woman who grew up picking cotton as a migrant farm worker.

SANS is a groundbreaking new eco-fashion line based in NYC. Comprised of designer Lika Volkova and sustainable production veteran Alessandro De Vito, SANS pushes the envelope with innovative shapes in sustainable materials such as bamboo, tussah silk and organic cotton and wool. SANS may well be the perfect name for this line, as it is not only “without” the pesticides and chemicals that often go into traditional textiles, but also “without” the frills and the trappings of trends.

The modern design of SANS is a sophisticated investigation into form and function which is impressive at any level, but all the more so from someone whose formal training consists of growing up sewing as Volkova's does. De Vito became more aware of sustainable design while living in London where he helped produce a friend’s streetwear label. He joined forces with Volkova after moving to New York and SANS was born. De Vito states, “Our thoughts on it is that ‘eco-friendly’ is not a marketing angle but just something that should be common in all lines at this level.” Therefore, while sustainably minded, they prefer to be recognized primarily for their design and construction. That recognition is on it’s way as SANS was awarded one of the five Ecco Domani Awards earlier this week. The awards come with a grant that will allow the designers to show their collections during New York’s fashion week.

Nau is a new outdoor apparel company churning out designs strong enough for the backwoods and stylish enough for the urban jungle. I am getting a Jil Sander and Helmut Lang vibe from some of these pieces, so you may wonder if they can cut the technical mustard. Nau assures their pieces are designed to perform. The company was founded in 2005 and built with sustainability in mind from fabric to foundation. They are headquartered in a LEED Gold certified building and all stores will be built with sustainability in mind. Nau uses only organic cotton and counts among it's other materials Ingeo and recycled polyester. The company is comprised of individuals with experience in top level positions at brands from Nike to North Face, not to mention the revered Patagonia. Like the latter, Nau pledges to donate proceeds to various environmental organizations and you get your choice at the point of purchase. Their Spring 2007 line will be available in January via their website and eventually at storefronts nationwide.

Sublime is a new magazine hatched out of London. The process began a few years ago when Sublime directors, Damian and Laura Santamaria began nurturing their vision for a magazine that would capture the best of diverse themes for personal social responsibility, fulfilled not by esthetic self-denial but deliberate, discerning engagement and consuming.

Sublime brings ethics and esthetics together in a fusion of style and soul. Laura Santamaria explains, "That's what we wanted to do with Sublime Magazine, bring together themes, issues, ideas and fuse them into a format that is innovative in terms of content, image and edgy graphic style, so that what we end up with is something that is definitive and iconic."

After a release of their delectable taster issue, which was showcased at London Fashion and Design weeks and inserted in the Saturday Times and Waitrose Food Magazine, Sublime is now due for launch in January and is to be distributed in WHSmiths high street stores in the UK and in the US through Barnes and Noble. You may also subscribe and have it arrive right on your doorstep.

I sampled the well designed issue zero and attended a "think tank" for the magazine this weekend. My only question was that I did not understand what was ethical about the fashion spread. It essentially showcased young, up and coming talent selected by On|Off which tied to an interview with Lee Lapthorne, the creative director for that organization. I am certainly not a purist or I'd be rolled up in a hemp cocoon in my permaculture rammed mud house somewhere and I am all for supporting young talent and giving precious editorial space to interesting newcomers, but I am not sure that qualifies as ethical. Out of the growing ethical fashion options I would have liked to have seen them throw us at least one sustainable style bone or a fair trade crumb to follow to the next issue. Alas, it was only issue zero, a taste of what is to come, maybe some of their fellow Brits, such as Katharine Hamnett, People Tree, Howies, Prouvoust & Father, Becky Early and Kate Fletcher or TRAID will make it into future pages. Or perhaps they'll wow us with some high fashion Noir spread in issue one. Other than this disappointment, the rest of the content seemed fairly on target and was presented in a package that has piqued my interest enough to stay tuned for the first issue.

I have written about Salvor Kiosk before and have admired their amazing silk screened balsa wood, but then I finally realized they are also the purveyors of these very cool organic tees for tots, which are all hand dyed and silk screened here in Brooklyn. Go wild!

I occasionally get emails and comments from readers or people I meet that profess they wish that they could make clothes. While I am deeply flattered by any compliments, I know my knowledge of garment construction is basic and only just beginning. I am fairly good at recognizing quality, but not so good at producing it. This is why, when asked if I will sell the stuff I am making, I resoundingly answer, "NO!". I may eventually sell something I design, but I will leave the construction up to the professionals. For my personal projects, I definitely have a bit of a renegade technique happening, a sort of "need to wear this tonight" philosophy to sewing. Therefore, I feel a bit awkward assuming I am in any position to give advice, but since you've asked, I'll share with you what I know.

New Consumer is a UK magazine that was founded in 2002 to champion fair trade and ethical living throughout the world, and to ultimately change consumer and business behavior by illustrating the ethical alternative. Their Sept/Oct fashion issue, yes I am a little late, was guest edited by Katharine Hamnett and included the ethical journalists, Lucy Siegle, Tanis Taylor, Bel Jacobs, Kate Finnigan and Josh Sims.

Coco's Shoppe is an online boutique offering a variety of ecofriendly style and beauty options. The above collection is made from a cashmere and bamboo blend designed by Michelle Zacks for her new line Spring & Clifton.

The shop also carries modal and lyocell pieces from Velvet and several selections from eco-designer Carol Young's Undesigned collection. You can also find the usual suspects, such as Loomstate, Edun and stewart+brown, and harder to find Ananas bags and Charmoné shoes.

Anne Klein swimsuit

Isabel Toledo designs


I am equally excited to see the first collection of the recently resurrected House of Vionnet.

Vionnet gown

Christien Meindertsma's label FLOCKS was born last year of the wool of a small flock of sheep in Wales. Each garment in the collection was produced from the wool of just one of these sheep, continuing until the wool was finished. This year FLOCKS is celebrating the black sheep, with a new collection that is knitted from a variety of rare breeds from around the world, from black angora rabbits to alpacas.

I was amazed to find this wonderful knit rug on the site, too. All of the links are not working as the site is being updated with the new collection, but I was too eager not to share this with you as it seems a true and direct connection between ourselves and the source of our clothing.

Like last time, it was a totally random experience. I love NYC because I can be jolted away from my laptop by a very loud marching band (sans uniform) that just happens to be going down the street.

I have taken many pictures at this neighborhood coffeeshop over the year. The same waitress takes them and so I thought it would be nice to have her take one of the last photos.
reused: scarf, bag
the rest: Catherine Malandrino jeans, Chie Mihara boots, embroidered wool sweater, black turtleneck, down vest

Sometimes I did flat photos of the clothes laid out or occasionally micro shots like above.
reused: striped shirt, wool cardigan
the rest: Polo jeans

I have never taken a picture at work and indeed my work situation has fluctuated throughout the year. However, since February I have worked part-time at a private pediatric therapy practice. Therefore, many days I am dressed to swing from the rafters and swim in the ball pit. Not your typical work environment. I wore this sweatshirt somewhat knowing I may be inviting the odd comment. One of my 3 year old clients asked, "Um, Jill, why are you wearing a spooky shirt?" So, I had to come up with an explanation of "Day of the Dead" on the fly.

This is the same day, on the way home from work. I have also taken many photos in this park, so thought it would be nice to do one last one.
reused: sweatshirt, Ferragamo boots, bag, scarf
reduced: my "so out they are back in" Todd Oldham skinny leg jeans.
the rest: J.Crew coat I bought with a gift certificate. I make it go three seasons by layering under a down vest or a full down liner I salvaged from an old coat.

This is the last photo taken by another person. Often the street shots were taken by strangers, but this was taken by someone I met through this site due to common interests, which has happened a lot over the year.
reused: 20's silk velvet dress, slip, belt, necklace, ring, purse, boots
the rest: tree cashmere cardigan

And this is what I wore today.
reused: wool print dress, boots, bag
the rest: Ulla Johnson cardigan

the end

fiftyRX3 turned one year old last week. I will be posting the final daily pictures soon. So, what else am I going to do? Well, I have been thinking a lot about that lately. All I can say for now is, stay tuned...

I know I have mentioned this site several times before, but I think it is the best street style site around. Okay, admittedly, I really don't look at too many others. With pictures this good, who needs to. What is happening up there in Helsinki? I love the range that they always capture and the quality of the photos is always fantasic. Look at that couple in the middle, even the baby looks great.

get them here.

Wangari Maathai served in the National Council of Women of Kenya in 1976-87 and was its chairman from 1981-87. She introduced her tree-planting concept to ordinary citizens in 1976 and went on to develop it into the Green Belt Movement, a broad-based, grassroots organization whose main focus is helping women’s groups plant trees to conserve the environment and improve quality of life. Through the Green Belt Movement, she now has helped women plant more than 30 million trees on their farms, on schools, and on church compounds.

Maathai is internationally recognized for her persistent struggle for democracy, human rights, and environmental conservation. She has addressed the United Nations on several occasions, and she spoke on behalf of women at special sessions of the General Assembly for the five-year review of the 1992 Earth Summit. She has served on the U.N. Commission for Global Governance and the Commission on the Future. She and the Green Belt Movement have received numerous awards, most notably the 2004 Nobel Peace Prize.

In 2002, Maathai was elected to Kenya’s Parliament and was subsequently appointed by Kenya’s president as Assistant Minister for the Environment. In 2005 she was elected Presiding Officer of the Economic, Social and Cultural Council of the African Union. The Council will advise the African Union on issues related to African civil society. Eleven African heads of state whose countries are on the Congo Basin also appointed her a Goodwill Ambassador for the Congo Basin Forest Ecosystem, an advocacy role for the conservation and protection of this vital Ecosystem.

You can read about her life and her organization through her two books, Unbowed: A Memoir and The Green Belt Movement. (via The Green Belt Movement)

I try not to get too personal here, but I had several difficult things to deal with this past week. I also think the lack of personal down time is taking it's toll. If only I had another one of me, but alas life isn't like that and we have to make choices. Saturday, I chose to forego all of the things I need and want to work on for some serious recharging of my batteries. This time of year, I usually go hiking up in Woodstock where I grew up, but being unable to get away, I decided go to the poorman's country, also known as Central Park. It was a beautiful day. I walked around taking photos, admiring the foliage and hiking through the woods. When the sun sank and my fingers started to freeze I stopped in the Boathouse Cafe. I met these lovely older gentlemen as I sat by the fire with a glass of wine to warm up. One was absorbed in his book, so I asked the other one a couple of questions and soon he was pouring out stories from his life. It was really nice. Finally, I left and window shopped my way down Madison Avenue to Barney's where I took advantage of a big mirror for a photo op.

reused: high waisted skinny jeans stolen from a castaway pile of my sister's. these are definitely not what everyone is wearing, the ankle length would probably look good with some heels, but I was dressed to walk around the park, thrifted black cotton turtleneck (both of these items are from that era where everything had stretch in it), cropped wool/alpaca coat
the rest: vialis shoes, tote bag, down vest

monday
reused: boots, bag
the rest: tunic top, leggings

tuesday... an early day for me. my priority is comfort and warmth, plus it was supposed to rain. everything i'm wearing was bought new.

wednesday... i spoke to a class at FIT today.
reused: bags, Charles Jourdan suede platform pumps
reduced: Del Forte organic cotton jeans
the rest: Maria Cornejo camisole, Prada top, Mascaro shoes

later i met some friends at inoteca for dinner. i was feeling too matchy between top and shoes, so changed into the Mascaro kitten heels I bought at the factory in Menorca and also changed to this bag I recently bought second hand. one of my friends at dinner designs bags and commented on it, it looks brand new. funny, i am just now realizing that my shoes and bag seem to match, so much for the change. i also recommend the Pico wine i tried. the waitress filled us in on biodynamic wines after i realized that i didn't know how it differed from organic.

thursday... i went to the worldchanging book party and had a great dinner, vegetarian vietnamese, at Lan.
reused: leggings (i picked these up at the Salvation Army while looking for big sweatshirts to resew. i thought i'd use them for a pattern, but turns out they fit well and i like them.), boots
recycled/reduced: men's organic cotton shirt remade into tunic dress.
the rest: felted wool coat, cashmere sweater

friday... i went to the ekovaruhuset opening
recycled: 30-minute dress under recycled cashmere sweater dress
the rest: boots, t-shirt, coat, sweater

saturday... i went on a field trip.

sunday... i spent the day at home
reused: sweatpants, i took this from my sister's toss out pile while on a 3 week visit to see my family when they were in southern california. i packed light, so these came in handy when chasing down the nephews or hanging on the beach.
reduced: 15 year old t-shirt from india, held out like this I can really see the block print. straw slippers.

As part of Japan's Design Tide this year, Treasured Trash will function as a recycling station with innovative ideas for the possible brighter future. There will be several designers exhibiting in the space including Kei Seto, of ecocolo, the smart looking Japanese eco-lifestyle magazine. Almost makes you wish you could read in Japanese.

Ecotopia is on view at the International Center for Photography until January 7, 2007:

In a time of rampant natural disasters and urgent concerns about global environmental change, this exhibition demonstrates the ways in which the most interesting and engaging contemporary artists view the natural world. Shattering the stereotypes of landscape and nature photography, the thirty-nine international artists included in this survey boldly examine new concepts of the natural sphere occasioned by twenty-first-century technologies; images of destructive ecological engagement; and visions of our future interactions with the environment. Considering nature in the broadest sense, this exhibition reflects new perspectives on the planet that sustains, enchants, and—increasingly—frightens us.

I am off to this event... better late than never!

I wrote about the WorldChanging book earlier this year with great anticipation. Well, ladies and gentlemen, the time is now. Last night I joined fellow NYC eco-friends in meeting the WorldChangers and finally got my little hands on the book. It looks fantastic. It was officially released on November 1st and hit #13 on Amazon that day. Buy yours today.

I am grateful for the press PSFK has given my recent Green Jeans Roundup. However, I feel compelled to respond to Amanda Gore's comments on my lack of including Edun in the mix. First of all, the exclusion was not a conscious decision, but perhaps it was more a subconscious one. Yes, Bono has done some amazing things. Yes, Edun is a lovely brand with good intentions, which I've written about before (1, 2). However, I view the brand as primarily fair trade, as their goal seems to support Third World economies through trade. World Benefit reports, "Edun sees its business model as a marriage of social activism and aesthetic innovation with the goal of building a business while creating sustainable employment in developing areas of the world." While they also state, " Edun’s materials are ethically sourced and, as far as possible, organic...", their eco-fiber use currently makes up only 30% of their line. Fair trade is a good thing, no doubt, but my personal philosophy falls more in line with sweatshop free. I am as equally compelled to support a garment worker in Chinatown with a living wage as I am a garment worker in China. Environmentally speaking, it is probably better for me to buy locally produced goods anyway.

My main interest is sustainable design, which one could easily argue includes fair trade. However, I suppose I tend to focus on "environmentally friendly" production, which is likely why the post was labeled "Green Jeans" and not "Ethical Denim". That said, for a brand that is 30% eco, Edun seems to garner a very large percentage of eco-fashion press. As one who reads almost every bit of eco-fashion news out there, I seem to read about Edun the most. ELLE magazine stated, "Edun... has fast become a sort of byword for green fashion." This tends to rile me up a bit because their name is becoming synonomous with a movement that they are not yet 100% committed to. I realize this is their goal, but meanwhile many other companies and designers are 100% committed to using sustainable textiles and production practices. This is part of why fiftyRX3 exists, to help promote these designs and increase awareness about eco-options. So, again , while it was not a conscious decision to exclude Edun, I assume anybody who has been paying attention has already heard of the brand. Therefore, after giving a nod to Rogan Gregory, Edun's "designer", via one of his other companies, Loomstate, perhaps I felt it was best to showcase some other options.

Habitude is a design-oriented company with a strong belief in protecting and respecting natural resources through all of their business and personal choices. Their aim is to offer sustainability and style to the eco-conscious consumer. I would even venture that Habitude will be offering sustainability to the consumer in general, as you certainly don't have to be eco-conscious to enjoy this collection.

When designer Laura Chapuis was at FIT in 1998, she participated in a Master/Apprentice program. She was paired with Diane Von Furstenburg to fullfill the task of designing an outfit using fabrics made from recycled plastics. The outfits were then presented in a fashion show at Bryant Park. Laura states, "It was a really exciting event to be a part of, but also really got me thinking about environmentally-aware fabrics and what else I could do with them."

After ten years of studying and working in New York, Laura made her way to Texas to literally seek greener pastures. When she discovered her new home state was where most of the organic cotton grown in the US came from, it was serendipity. She felt she had arrived at the time and place to do what she had always dreamed of doing.

Her collection is full of the kind of easy, good looking separates I crave. You cannot go wrong with empire dresses and little cropped jackets. Laura's designs are a welcome voice in the growing eco-fashion choir.